Two months after a deadly assault on tourists in Pahalgam brought India and Pakistan to the brink of war, the scenic Himalayan valley is beginning to show the first signs of a tourism revival.
On the iconic Dal Lake in Srinagar, Shabana Awwal was seen filming her children taking turns on a water bike. She had travelled from Rajasthan with her husband and a group of 15 extended family members.
She said she had visited Kashmir many times before and had already explored major attractions such as Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam. This time, she wanted to show these places to her relatives.
The Awwals had planned their 10-day trip in March, hoping to escape the oppressive summer heat in Rajasthan during the children's school break. However, circumstances changed drastically after militants attacked a group of tourists near Pahalgam on April 22, killing 26 people.
Tourism, the mainstay of the economy in Jammu and Kashmirsuffered a severe blow following the attack, which was unprecedented in its targeting of tourists. Authorities responded by closing 48 tourist destinations across the valley, with two-thirds of them still remaining shut.
Chief Minister Omar Abdullah, who has been actively lobbying for the reopening of these destinations, said the impact of the attack had been immediate and widespread. He noted that there was a mass exodus of tourists already present in the valley and widespread cancellations by those who had planned to visit. He added that India and Pakistan had come perilously close to war for several days in May. The consequences, he said, were evident not only in deteriorating bilateral relations but also in the near-collapse of this year's tourism season, which he described as disastrous.
Despite the tense backdrop, some visitors decided to go ahead with their travel plans. Awwal said her family had not been particularly afraid and had chosen to proceed with their holiday, ready to handle any situation that might arise. She expressed satisfaction with the decision, saying that the situation on the ground appeared normal and attributing perceptions of insecurity to what she described as media exaggeration.
A couple from Jammu visiting Srinagar with their two children, also said they saw no reason to cancel their trip. They had made their plans just a week earlier and felt that Kashmir remained unmatched as a summer holiday destination. The couple noted that their children enjoyed activities like riding water bikes and boating on the lake, and pointed out that they visited every year and did not wish to break the tradition.
Last week, a group of Polish tourists arrived in Srinagar — a development that has brought hope to the region’s tourism sector. Those who rely on tourism — including hoteliers, taxi drivers, guides, shopkeepers, and shikara owners — are among those most affected by the Pahalgam carnage.
Haji Wali Mohammad Bhat, president of the Shikara Owners’ Association, recalled that Dal Lake’s boulevard had been packed with tourists in April, with traffic jams a daily occurrence and accommodation in short supply. He called the attack on tourists had severely affected the livelihoods of people like him. He described tourism as the valley’s lifeline and said many were left wondering what sin they were being punished for.
Ravi Gosain, president of the Indian Association of Tour Operators, who recently led a three-day fact-finding visit to the valley, said tourism had been thriving in Kashmir in recent years. He observed that many new hotels had been constructed, new vehicles acquired, and new businesses opened. According to government figures, 35 lakh people travelled to the Kashmir valley.
While acknowledging that the peak season had been lost, Gosain said there were still signs of recovery. He noted that local people were welcoming and that those working in the hospitality and tourism industries were eager to receive guests. He also pointed out that incoming flights were full and said the recovery was progressing rapidly.
He believed that if the attackers’ aim had been to derail tourism, their efforts would not succeed. However, he expressed hope that no further incidents would occur.
The new railway connection has also contributed to the recent rise in tourist arrivals. For the first time, Srinagar has been directly linked to the rest of India by train.
The twice-daily train service from Srinagar to Katra, in the Jammu region — which gained attention for crossing the world’s highest single-arch railway bridge — has been operating at full capacity, with tickets sold out for the next two months.
Katra, the base camp for pilgrims visiting the Vaishno Devi shrine, attracted 9.48 million visitors last year. Since 7 June, when the air-conditioned train was commissioned, many pilgrims have taken the opportunity to take the three hour Katra-Srinagar journey to travel around the Kashmir valley.
Chief Minister Abdullah regarded the willingness of pilgrims to visit the valley as an encouraging sign. He said he hoped that those currently visiting for only a few hours would, in time, gain the confidence to stay for a few days, and that short-stay visitors would eventually extend their trips to a week. In his view, even small steps towards revival were significant — and they mattered.
